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Damp Inspections on Old houses
By arlene | November 22, 2008
Damp: If a house has been standing for a long time and shows no sign of ever having tried to fall down or dark patches on the wall, the presence of damp is probably not too much of a problem. Poor drainage is often a likely cause of damp and can be expensive to remedy. Check gutters, downpipes and garden water runoff.
Paint: If you are repainting without replastering, whitewash (available in a variety of colours) is better than modern plastic- based paints because old walls like to breathe and a free flow of air between bricks creates a natural drying process. Plastic-based paint inside and outside can trap moisture inside the walls. Whitewash is a mixture of powdered lime and water and is therefore neither washable nor as long lasting as PVA. However, it is the whitest white paint available and it is also the cheapest.
Air vents or air bricks at floor level were put there to create ventilation under the floors, thus keeping the timber dry and free of rot and beetle infestation. Borer beetle loves damp wood so keep vents free of dirt, dust and shrubbery, especially if you carpet your wooden floors.
Dampcourse: Many old houses were built without dampcourse, a layer of waterproof material incorporated into a brick wall close to ground level to prevent moisture rising. In many cases, concrete paving, especially outside kitchens and around drains where there is normally a lot of water, served as a type of dampcourse. Be careful of ripping out all concrete paving close to the building without checking the effect of water on the walls and foundations. If you are brickpaving or tiling a patio previously concreted, lay the bricks on top and slope them towards the stormwater sump. Provide drainage under the paving to carry away stormwater from the gutter or the water will settle under the bricks or tiles and eventually seep into the building.
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