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A checklist of possible defects to look for in any new house
By arlene | February 4, 2009
You will have to employ an expert if you feel it necessary to investigate structural soundness, cracks and subsidence, but once you have applied the following guidelines you will have a fairly good idea of the overall condition of the house.
Roof: Look at patches and sagging in the main structure, and examine the condition of corrugated iron sheets and tiles. Rusting or dented iron and missing, cracked or eroded tiles will mean steep replacement costs. Look closely at the weather side of the roof and check for wind or storm damage.
Slope change areas in the roof require particularly close attention because these areas are most susceptible to extra wear and tear, and the source of many leaks which are very difficult to fix.
Check that the flashing (a sheet of covering material, usually lead or aluminium, bridging the joint between the roof and the walls, parapets and chimneys) is present and intact and watch for cracks in areas above the flashing join.
Wood shingles: Pay particular attention to the overall condition of shingles as the total replacement costs are so high that most home owners would probably opt for a more conventional roofing material such as asbestos tiles which are becoming the most popular roofing material in the Republic. Slate is also expensive, but very attractive while corrugated iron is fading in popularity — probably because it has a shorter life span than asbestos cement tiles or slate and requires more upkeep.
Flat roofs: These are no longer the hazard they were once considered to be, but do watch flashing in particular and check inside for signs of condensation and damp near the roof join with the walls. Also watch for depressions which could cause water to collect on the roof. Large lakes of water pose a growing problem because they will probably get larger since water is heavy, and correction can again be quite expensive.
Chimney: Is it straight? Does it protrude at least half a metre above the roof (downdraughts created by the roof could create a smoking fireplace problem if it is any lower). Watch the flashing and the soundness of construction of the chimney. Look for corrosion on metal chimneys and pay very close attention to the condition of the seal between the roof and chimney. Light the fireplace to make sure everything works.
Vent pipes: Check for soundness of attachment to walls and the condition of the seal where it comes through the roof. There should be a ‘birds nest’ (wire cage to prevent blockage) at the top of the vent pipe. If it is not there it can be easily replaced, but first check that the pipe is clear.
Gutters and downpipes: Are they firmly attached? Do gutters slope in the direction of the downpipes? Are gutter joins properly sealed? Check overall condition. Are downpipes clear of debris? Do they discharge into channels that will take water at least one metre from the edge of the house? This is very important since water discharging directly at the wall could cause trouble with the foundations and damp-proofing which you will want to be aware of. This problem may also occur if flowerbeds lie adjacent to the walls.
Walls and woodwork: Look at the condition of the plaster and note any sinking, bulging, cracking or damp. Are there any indications that repainting is hiding possible flaws? Is paint adhering as it should? Brown tinges are a sure sign of rising damp (damp rising from the ground through capillary action) which is expensive to cure. Check that the level of the ground on outside walls has not risen above the dampcourse (which would allow capillary action to take place). Do doors and windows open and shut firmly and correctly? Is woodwork in need of paint or varnish? Are cupboards well made and easily opened and closed? Watch for signs of dry rot or beetle infestation, do not just leave it all to the mandatory beetle inspection in coastal areas. The presence of woodborers or beetle is revealed by small pin holes in the woodwork. Dry rot, surprisingly, occurs in damp timber which becomes powdery due to fungal action. A mouldy, damp smell often gives it away.
Attic: Check presence and condition of insulation — this is important for keeping the house warm in winter and cool in summer. Make sure there is adequate ventilation. Watch for any signs of roof leakage, insect and rodent infestation.
Floors: Can you live with them as they are? Watch for sagging or excessive spring. Are they level?
Electrics: If an earth leakage system is not present the law requires you to install one before any electrical work in the house is undertaken. This alone will cost several hundred rands. Similarly, if significant alterations are undertaken on the electrical system, many local authorities are insisting on inside meter boxes being moved outside for the convenience of meter reading. Has the house been rewired recently? Do all light switches and wallplugs work? Do not shirk, test them all. Are there sufficient wallplugs, especially in the kitchen and lounge area? If you have any doubts about the electrics of the property check with the local electricity department. In any event if faults are found later on, the department will hold you, the owner, responsible for putting them right.
Plumbing: Make sure baths, showers, sinks and toilets work properly by testing them all thoroughly, and do not forget to check the outside taps and connections to appliances such as dish and clothes washing machines. Is the water pressure adequate? Is the bathroom or shower well ventilated? Check all porcelain for cracks. Is the hot water geyser in good working order? Hots many litres does it hold and how many hot water taps does it serve? Make sure you know the location of the stopcock controlling the flow of water to the house.
Miscellaneous factors: Have boundary pegs pointed out. Are there any indications that storm water will not run freely away from the house? Are there any servitudes running through the property? Is the driveway in good shape? Borehole? Will the garden need much work? Which direction does the prevailing wind come from and how strong is it? Establish the position of the house in relation to the sun. A house that faces north-west to west could be unbearably hot in summer. The ideal is a home that faces slightly to the east of true north, the position of north as indicated by the survey department on property diagrams, as opposed to magnetic north, which varies considerably from province to province. Check the hours of sunlight. Are fences in reasonable shape? Any odd parking or traffic patterns evident?
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Topics: Department, Property | 6 Comments »
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